It has been quite some time since my last post but not for lack of notable experiences or encounters. I have spent the last days of my far-too-short trip in the best of company and have been too enthralled in conversation and washing dishes to post anything.
As we sat down to eat one of many perfectly prepared and thoroughly enjoyed meals in KP I looked down the long table at my new friends and knew an overwhelming feeling of joy and immense appreciation for the countless privileges and blessings that have been mine this past month. At times there were just over 40 of us gathered around to feast, but on this particular day I cannot remember exactly how many we were - I was only dumbstruck. I now have friends - dear friends - in at least 8 countries: namely from Ukraine, but now in Romania, Russia, Belgium, the Netherlands, South Africa, Ireland, and Australia. I was speechless.
I am tempted to try to sum up my month here in a few paragraphs but I know that is futile. So I will just write some of the impressions that I am left with of Beautiful Ukraine....
Ever since I was a little boy and had heard stories from Trude about this place I had it fixed in my mind that Ukraine was a gray and bleak place. I could not imagine why anyone would want to leave America to live there. On my first day in this country we walked around Kiev and that preconceived misconception was obliterated. And every day for the past 30 days that bleak and gray Ukraine was pushed farther and farther back into distant memory. I have never seen a more beautiful place nor been in the company of such lovely people as I have witnessed here. I have a country full of new friends whom I love and a new favorite spot on the atlas. I had been excited and ready for anything sitting in LAX a month ago waiting for my flight, but Ukraine and my adopted family here far exceeded my expectations and I am left with such deep gratitude towards them.
We were in a town called "KP" for the last week where we were fed 3 times a day from a never ending source :) I spent more time with the young people here and even met a young man visiting from Belgium. In the evenings a few of us walked the mile to the river that winded it's way through these endless emerald hills and we talked and laughed and I just stared off into space listening to their Ukrainian wishing so badly that I could understand them. Sunday came far too quickly as it always does at these particular venues and I dreaded the time to leave. After getting some good direction from the basement of the home, the crowd stood outside and we all began to say our goodbyes. I managed to hold it all together pretty well as I shook hands and gave hugs but as I sat in the van and watched my new family waving and smiling saying "Come again! We'll miss you!" tears welled up and rolled down my cheeks. *sigh* I knew this would happen. Our hired driver looked at me funny a few times, wondering why on earth this guy next to him was crying but he soon concentrated on diverting around the potholes and forgot all about his teary passenger. I was very thankful for Uncle Don's company and conversation to keep my mind off the sadness of leaving, but soon we were at the bus station where we split ways and said a few more goodbyes. From here Trude and I our South African friend took a bus across the beautiful countryside one last time and landed in Kiev once again.
As I sit here typing it's hard to fathom that I was in this exact place only a month ago posting my first blog and excitedly talking with Trude about all of our plans for the month ahead. It's difficult to believe that we did so much, were able to meet so many people and build new friendships in these 4 short weeks. I'm so thankful that I was able to come here and that I have my Aunt Trude here. Now I finally understand why she's here: this country is full of wheat fields and they are turning gold. It's harvest time. I now know why she loves Ukraine because now I do, too. I can't wait to come back.
Sunday, July 3, 2011
Tuesday, June 21, 2011
The Outskirts of Lutsk with a Happily Homeless Band
Our 2 days in Rivne were wonderful: we were able to re-energize and even managed to visit a wonderful lady in a nearby village where I was offered amazing food yet again. You just can't get food like this in the States. The next morning we lugged our bags filled with orders from the Preps crew and found room on a bus going to Lutsk. Our "layover" was to be quite awhile at the Lutsk bus station so while Trude went to retrieve sustenance for our travels I stayed by the stuff. Dad's old guitar has been quite nice having on this trip and proved very handy at this very moment. I was getting a bit fidgety for all of this sitting and decided it was time to play the ol' 6-string. If you want Ukrainians to stare at you here are some tips: be American, speak English, wear glasses. If you want them to REALLY stare at you do all of the above and play guitar while waiting at the bus station. Trude got a real kick out of it :)
A little while later we met up with some more of Trude's homeless friends and realized our pile of luggage, supplies, and groceries were too much for a bus. I felt like we were standing on Platform 9 3/4, all that was missing were a few owls. So, we hired a taxi (my first time in a Mercedes - quite nice!) and finally made it to one of the places which I've been looking forward to seeing for years. I've heard Trude tell stories of this family and of the farm here since I was a little kid. I'm so happy to be here - I feel at home. We are surrounded by rolling hills of wheat fields as far as the eye can see and if a sudden rain shower or lighting storm isn't looming in the distance or right overhead, the sunsets around here are second to none. It reminds me of Northern Idaho or even Montana here where the sky seems ten times bigger, and the clouds over the hills let through rays of sun that light up the farmhouses scattered all around the country side. This country is beautiful.
Trude and I, along with a visitor from Romania, took off for the weekend to be with some friends even farther north. It was a long and arduous bus ride to get there but once we arrived at our friends' home, the warm greetings made it well worth the trip. I talked a little bit with the boy of the house and we took turns pointing to our respective countries on the map, showing one another where we lived. I was fed even better food this time and once again was commanded to "Eat! Eat! You've hardly eaten anything! Eat!" (This happens at every meal, even if I've already stuffed myself full, mind you). From here we ran to the bus station, escorted by two adorable little girls in bright pink dresses starkly contrasting the gray and gloom surrounding us. They stood there with their mothers and all four waved goodbye as our bus pulled away and on to the next village. More friends, another meal (Eat! Eat!), more "Hello's" and "Goodbye's", another bus or two, wait on the sidewalk alone for a taxi, another apartment. Sunday came to a close and we finally could sleep again.
The next morning Dan took me to the University in Lutsk and gave me a quick tour. Afterwards we met up with Trude and some others and finally found a place to get souvenirs! We loaded up and then headed out for the bus station once more where there was just enough time for Karen and I to run into the supermarket for a few things. Trude needed me to get some CD-Rs so Karen and I split ways. I ran up to the second level in a mad frenzy to find these blank CDs. I wandered through the isles and became desperate. Not thinking, I spotted the first employee and walked over to ask for help.
"Do you have any blank CD's?" I asked him quickly.
Blank look, then wrinkled forehead. "Aljojfsdy?"
Oh, boy. Now I was stuck. Pretty soon my helper was calling his associate over. Then they both started to demonstrate one of there stereo systems for me.
"Is nice, eh?" The taller one says to me.
"No no. I need a CD - a blank CD."
"Yes, yes - CD!" The shorter one opens another stereo, pulls out a CD, holds it in my face then puts it back in and presses play. "Is nice?"
"I need a blank CD; CD-R? Empty CD." I say this while I make circular motions with my hands, like this would help.
Very thick accent: "One moment." The taller one grabs another coworker but he can't help me either.
I'm spinning on the spot scanning the store for some sign of blank CDs. As I glance towards the door I notice that there is now a large crowd of employees circled up talking and smiling in pure amusement and excitement as they watch this poor helpless foreigner looking for blank CDs.
Once the fourth helper couldn't understand my request, he decided to call his girlfriend: "I call...my woooman. She...very good English."
So I explained to this man's woman what I needed, "A blank CD, so I can burn-"
"Ok, ok!" she said. I handed the phone back, but he already heard what I said.
"Oh! CD!? Ok, ok! Here you go!" He says as he walks me to the correct aisle and hands me a stack of CD-R's. "Music!" He said in a tone like 'Why didn't you say that in the first place?'
I laughed as I payed the cashier who also didn't understand a word I was saying. As I walked out the door I waved goodbye to my audience of 15 clearly entertained employees standing in a row, all smiling from ear to ear as if they just watched a great comedy act.
I met up with Karen and we hurried off to the bus to catch it just in time. We got settled as I told the story of what just happened, much to Trude's enjoyment, and headed back to the peaceful hills of the farm.
A little while later we met up with some more of Trude's homeless friends and realized our pile of luggage, supplies, and groceries were too much for a bus. I felt like we were standing on Platform 9 3/4, all that was missing were a few owls. So, we hired a taxi (my first time in a Mercedes - quite nice!) and finally made it to one of the places which I've been looking forward to seeing for years. I've heard Trude tell stories of this family and of the farm here since I was a little kid. I'm so happy to be here - I feel at home. We are surrounded by rolling hills of wheat fields as far as the eye can see and if a sudden rain shower or lighting storm isn't looming in the distance or right overhead, the sunsets around here are second to none. It reminds me of Northern Idaho or even Montana here where the sky seems ten times bigger, and the clouds over the hills let through rays of sun that light up the farmhouses scattered all around the country side. This country is beautiful.
Trude and I, along with a visitor from Romania, took off for the weekend to be with some friends even farther north. It was a long and arduous bus ride to get there but once we arrived at our friends' home, the warm greetings made it well worth the trip. I talked a little bit with the boy of the house and we took turns pointing to our respective countries on the map, showing one another where we lived. I was fed even better food this time and once again was commanded to "Eat! Eat! You've hardly eaten anything! Eat!" (This happens at every meal, even if I've already stuffed myself full, mind you). From here we ran to the bus station, escorted by two adorable little girls in bright pink dresses starkly contrasting the gray and gloom surrounding us. They stood there with their mothers and all four waved goodbye as our bus pulled away and on to the next village. More friends, another meal (Eat! Eat!), more "Hello's" and "Goodbye's", another bus or two, wait on the sidewalk alone for a taxi, another apartment. Sunday came to a close and we finally could sleep again.
The next morning Dan took me to the University in Lutsk and gave me a quick tour. Afterwards we met up with Trude and some others and finally found a place to get souvenirs! We loaded up and then headed out for the bus station once more where there was just enough time for Karen and I to run into the supermarket for a few things. Trude needed me to get some CD-Rs so Karen and I split ways. I ran up to the second level in a mad frenzy to find these blank CDs. I wandered through the isles and became desperate. Not thinking, I spotted the first employee and walked over to ask for help.
"Do you have any blank CD's?" I asked him quickly.
Blank look, then wrinkled forehead. "Aljojfsdy?"
Oh, boy. Now I was stuck. Pretty soon my helper was calling his associate over. Then they both started to demonstrate one of there stereo systems for me.
"Is nice, eh?" The taller one says to me.
"No no. I need a CD - a blank CD."
"Yes, yes - CD!" The shorter one opens another stereo, pulls out a CD, holds it in my face then puts it back in and presses play. "Is nice?"
"I need a blank CD; CD-R? Empty CD." I say this while I make circular motions with my hands, like this would help.
Very thick accent: "One moment." The taller one grabs another coworker but he can't help me either.
I'm spinning on the spot scanning the store for some sign of blank CDs. As I glance towards the door I notice that there is now a large crowd of employees circled up talking and smiling in pure amusement and excitement as they watch this poor helpless foreigner looking for blank CDs.
Once the fourth helper couldn't understand my request, he decided to call his girlfriend: "I call...my woooman. She...very good English."
So I explained to this man's woman what I needed, "A blank CD, so I can burn-"
"Ok, ok!" she said. I handed the phone back, but he already heard what I said.
"Oh! CD!? Ok, ok! Here you go!" He says as he walks me to the correct aisle and hands me a stack of CD-R's. "Music!" He said in a tone like 'Why didn't you say that in the first place?'
I laughed as I payed the cashier who also didn't understand a word I was saying. As I walked out the door I waved goodbye to my audience of 15 clearly entertained employees standing in a row, all smiling from ear to ear as if they just watched a great comedy act.
I met up with Karen and we hurried off to the bus to catch it just in time. We got settled as I told the story of what just happened, much to Trude's enjoyment, and headed back to the peaceful hills of the farm.
Tuesday, June 14, 2011
We said a teary farewell in the village and caught the first bus out Monday morning. Our 40 minute ride brought us back to Izmayil for a few hours where Trude and I were able to enjoy the cool, quiet morning in the park. We took out the map and Trude traced the next few weeks' travels with her finger, pausing to tell a story of Ukrainian history or of the dear friends here. So, we folded up our map and crossed the street to the bus stop and hopped on. A few hours later we pulled in to Odessa and a new adventure began.
Walking the streets of Odessa reminded me of Boston or San Francisco only with more flavor. The city is very old and has tons of character! The architecture and aesthetics of the buildings are so lively and creative in some places and completely blah in others - clear evidence of the old regime. After taking a few pictures at the Port of Odessa Trude and I decided it was time for food. We passed through an underground market and saw a young man playing a guitar with his case laid open accepting donations. I thought to myself "This kid is really good at the guitar...." Then Trude turns on a dime and throws her hands in the air "Your guitar! We left it on the bus!!" So we ran up the famous steps overlooking the Port of Odessa and the Black Sea (quite a jaunt, mind you) and we split up: Trude to find the bus, me to save a spot at a restaurant.
A few things transpired within the next 45 minutes which the author chooses to leave unwritten for a few reasons. Namely to keep his mother from being worried. But fear not! All is well. I will tell more once I get home : ).
Trude finally returned with the guitar and we sat and ate and enjoyed the people-watching which was our entertainment for the next few hours in the park as well. We sallied over to the Odessa train station and boarded our hot and stuffy train at 7pm Monday night and found to our wonderful relief that we had a very friendly Ukrainian couple for cabin mates. We awoke at 6am Tuesday morning and got off the train in Lviv, stepped onto a bus which took on more and more people until every seat was full and the aisle completely crammed with people and their bags from the back all the way to steps down to the door. And of course we can't have any drafts lest we perish, so immediately the windows were closed and we were on our way. We stopped and visited Anya for a few hours and then we were in transit via bus after bus after bus.
After a long day of travelling and plenty of sweaty, pushy, stinky bus riders Trude dragged me up the stairs and into the elevator up to the 4th floor. She opened the door, we stepped inside, and she locked it behind us. I've never felt more cocooned in all my life. We will rest up a few days here while visiting some friends and then it's onward for more preparations.
My feet are sore, my legs are tired, my neck is stiff and my back hurts - but I could not be happier : ) I love this place and can't wait to come back again.
Walking the streets of Odessa reminded me of Boston or San Francisco only with more flavor. The city is very old and has tons of character! The architecture and aesthetics of the buildings are so lively and creative in some places and completely blah in others - clear evidence of the old regime. After taking a few pictures at the Port of Odessa Trude and I decided it was time for food. We passed through an underground market and saw a young man playing a guitar with his case laid open accepting donations. I thought to myself "This kid is really good at the guitar...." Then Trude turns on a dime and throws her hands in the air "Your guitar! We left it on the bus!!" So we ran up the famous steps overlooking the Port of Odessa and the Black Sea (quite a jaunt, mind you) and we split up: Trude to find the bus, me to save a spot at a restaurant.
A few things transpired within the next 45 minutes which the author chooses to leave unwritten for a few reasons. Namely to keep his mother from being worried. But fear not! All is well. I will tell more once I get home : ).
Trude finally returned with the guitar and we sat and ate and enjoyed the people-watching which was our entertainment for the next few hours in the park as well. We sallied over to the Odessa train station and boarded our hot and stuffy train at 7pm Monday night and found to our wonderful relief that we had a very friendly Ukrainian couple for cabin mates. We awoke at 6am Tuesday morning and got off the train in Lviv, stepped onto a bus which took on more and more people until every seat was full and the aisle completely crammed with people and their bags from the back all the way to steps down to the door. And of course we can't have any drafts lest we perish, so immediately the windows were closed and we were on our way. We stopped and visited Anya for a few hours and then we were in transit via bus after bus after bus.
After a long day of travelling and plenty of sweaty, pushy, stinky bus riders Trude dragged me up the stairs and into the elevator up to the 4th floor. She opened the door, we stepped inside, and she locked it behind us. I've never felt more cocooned in all my life. We will rest up a few days here while visiting some friends and then it's onward for more preparations.
My feet are sore, my legs are tired, my neck is stiff and my back hurts - but I could not be happier : ) I love this place and can't wait to come back again.
Friday, June 10, 2011
From Odessa to the Village
It was up early Tuesday morning to catch the first bus out of Mikolayiv. We were packed in and as the sun was rising, so was the temperature inside the bus. I was counting my blessings that this was So. Ukraine and that busriders were more lax on the open-window policy. Just as I was really starting to enjoy the slight breeze coming from the open hatch on the roof, a local in front of me jumps up and SLAMS it closed...bring on the sweat. 2 hours later we arrived in Odessa and jumped ship. Our trio hooked up with a university professor who had just arrived via night train, and we were soon on a nice, air-conditioned bus all to ourselves.
Along the way we passed through a few Moldavian/Ukrainian border patrol stations were Tante advised me "If they come on the bus take your glasses off and look straight ahead (only foreigners wear glasses)!" We put this to the test and sure enough, we got through. Whew! Sure glad to have a seasoned traveler with me! Our 4 hour bus ride dropped us off in Izmayil and we soon transferred our heap of luggage into a taxi and headed out to the village.
Life here is so refreshing. I would try to explain, but I think you just have to experience it yourself. All of the little houses have very similar floor plans, but the way they are decorated (on the outside) adds so much character and flavor to this small village. Some houses are made out of mud/straw with thatch roofs, others from brick and stucco; but the colors on some of these homes are what stand out the most. The houses are mostly a gray or beige color but have bright blue doors and window frames, some with ornate stenciling, the fences are painted 3-4 different colors with a diamond shape spanning each section, and almost every house has vines growing all over the front gates with a little dog barking at you as you walk by. I love this place.
I've been helping with a project here and have been able to see lots of the villagers walk and drive by. They rarely smile at you but will always say "Dobre dayn (good day)" as they pass by. The other day Tante and I rode bikes down the road a ways to pick up a few things at one of the village stores. While she was busy pointing out various houses I noticed lots of little children peering over fences and opening gates to get a better look at these strange people riding by. It's so amusing watching the kids here react to my English: it's almost like they're watching a magic trick but aren't quite sure how they feel about it. We picked up some tasty donut-shaped crackers and 2 of my favorite things from Ukraine: Kbac (pronounced: kvass) which is a slightly fermented drink made from old bread - it sounds questionable, but it's delicious. And pear-flavored soda.
There are so many wonderful people here who will stop at nothing to make sure you are well-fed and well-cared for. We leave in a few days and it will be very hard to say good bye. Hopefully I will get an invitation to come back some day...
Along the way we passed through a few Moldavian/Ukrainian border patrol stations were Tante advised me "If they come on the bus take your glasses off and look straight ahead (only foreigners wear glasses)!" We put this to the test and sure enough, we got through. Whew! Sure glad to have a seasoned traveler with me! Our 4 hour bus ride dropped us off in Izmayil and we soon transferred our heap of luggage into a taxi and headed out to the village.
Life here is so refreshing. I would try to explain, but I think you just have to experience it yourself. All of the little houses have very similar floor plans, but the way they are decorated (on the outside) adds so much character and flavor to this small village. Some houses are made out of mud/straw with thatch roofs, others from brick and stucco; but the colors on some of these homes are what stand out the most. The houses are mostly a gray or beige color but have bright blue doors and window frames, some with ornate stenciling, the fences are painted 3-4 different colors with a diamond shape spanning each section, and almost every house has vines growing all over the front gates with a little dog barking at you as you walk by. I love this place.
I've been helping with a project here and have been able to see lots of the villagers walk and drive by. They rarely smile at you but will always say "Dobre dayn (good day)" as they pass by. The other day Tante and I rode bikes down the road a ways to pick up a few things at one of the village stores. While she was busy pointing out various houses I noticed lots of little children peering over fences and opening gates to get a better look at these strange people riding by. It's so amusing watching the kids here react to my English: it's almost like they're watching a magic trick but aren't quite sure how they feel about it. We picked up some tasty donut-shaped crackers and 2 of my favorite things from Ukraine: Kbac (pronounced: kvass) which is a slightly fermented drink made from old bread - it sounds questionable, but it's delicious. And pear-flavored soda.
There are so many wonderful people here who will stop at nothing to make sure you are well-fed and well-cared for. We leave in a few days and it will be very hard to say good bye. Hopefully I will get an invitation to come back some day...
Monday, June 6, 2011
Museums, McDonald's & The Night Train
We had a fantastic Sunday morning and then took off to the Metro station to tour the Micro-Museum. Trude, Collin, three of the young kids and I spent most of the day walking around Kyiv and riding the Metro here, there, and yonder. After parting ways with our crew, Trude and I left to meet up with Vitali and his family (their house is so cool!). Vitali and his wife have a 4 m.o. baby girl, Elizibeta, who is the cutest thing I've seen in Ukraine.
After visiting and having another cup of tea (Ukrainians make some phenomenal tea) Trude and I took a bus/metro special back to the apt., all the way up to the 13th floor and packed up to leave. Then it was back down, walk to the metro with our bags and Dad's guitar, fight for a spot and try not to fall over when the car comes to a screeching halt. Once Trude finally got a seat, a woman started speaking to her in Ukrainian, so I tuned it out. I found out later through Trude's jovial tone that the woman was telling her how beautiful she thought Trude's "natural" hair looked. Needless to say it made Trude's day.
OFF THE METRO! Fight through the mob to get to the escalator and climb climb climb climb climb to the top. We rushed over to McDonald's for a quick bite and I was absolutely blown away. The place is HUGE! And according to my very credible source the restaurant here is considered a classy place to eat and to work. The quality of the food blows American McD's out of the water - quite a contrast. After our dinner we crossed the street to the train station and then walked down a flight of stone steps into an underground corridor with lighted blue and yellow numbers above hallway entrances denoting the different tracks. We ducked into #12 and climbed the narrow stone steps and emerged on a platform with people bustling around everywhere loading luggage on to a massive green train. Trude and I followed suit and before we knew it we were on our way to southern Ukraine via the Night Train. We left at 10pm and woke up at 10am at our destination (a night of sleep only disturbed by a drunkard yelling and slamming doors, the train stopping, and the police coming to take him off).
From the train station we took a taxi to the nearest bus station, got on another bus and headed for Mikolayiv. There, a friend of ours picked us up and showed us around the city where I got some new travelling shoes and pants and saw my first Ukrainian supermarket. I wanted to take a picture inside the store of the lady weighing out bags of flour, sugar, etc and handing them over the counter to customers, so I clicked my camera and heard a belligerent women's voice behind me. I turned around and the manager of the store was yelling at me. I called for Trude who translated "She doesn't want you taking pictures in here; she said she won't take your camera away this time..." Apparently she thought I was a 'business spy', but Trude explained that I was only a tourist.
Now we're back at the apt and settling down for the evening. It's an early start tomorrow and a long bus ride to Odessa, but I'm very excited to be there! Hard to believe I've only been here 2 days. Seems like we've done so much already.
Saturday, June 4, 2011
Day 1
Well I finally got to KBP airport and waited through a long line at customs just to find out that the form I filled out didn't need to be filled out. (This trip has made me very grateful for the airport personnel in the States...a world of difference). X-Ray my bags one last time and I see a Scandinavian waving at me through the sliding doors! Here at last! Trude picked me up with the trusty driver and now we're in Kyiv for the night staying with some friends :) 30 days and counting....but then again, who's counting? Bring on the adventure!
Thursday, June 2, 2011
Preparations...
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