From Odessa to the Village

It was up early Tuesday morning to catch the first bus out of Mikolayiv.  We were packed in and as the sun was rising, so was the temperature inside the bus.  I was counting my blessings that this was So. Ukraine and that busriders were more lax on the open-window policy.  Just as I was really starting to enjoy the slight breeze coming from the open hatch on the roof, a local in front of me jumps up and SLAMS it closed...bring on the sweat.  2 hours later we arrived in Odessa and jumped ship.  Our trio hooked up with a university professor who had just arrived via night train, and we were soon on a nice, air-conditioned bus all to ourselves.

Along the way we passed through a few Moldavian/Ukrainian border patrol stations were Tante advised me "If they come on the bus take your glasses off and look straight ahead (only foreigners wear glasses)!"  We put this to the test and sure enough, we got through.  Whew!  Sure glad to have a seasoned traveler with me!  Our 4 hour bus ride dropped us off in Izmayil and we soon transferred our heap of luggage into a taxi and headed out to the village.

Life here is so refreshing.  I would try to explain, but I think you just have to experience it yourself.  All of the little houses have very similar floor plans, but the way they are decorated (on the outside) adds so much character and flavor to this small village.  Some houses are made out of mud/straw with thatch roofs, others from brick and stucco; but the colors on some of these homes are what stand out the most.  The houses are mostly a gray or beige color but have bright blue doors and window frames, some with ornate stenciling, the fences are painted 3-4 different colors with a diamond shape spanning each section, and almost every house has vines growing all over the front gates with a little dog barking at you as you walk by.  I love this place.

I've been helping with a project here and have been able to see lots of the villagers walk and drive by.  They rarely smile at you but will always say "Dobre dayn (good day)" as they pass by.  The other day Tante and I rode bikes down the road a ways to pick up a few things at one of the village stores.  While she was busy pointing out various houses I noticed lots of little children peering over fences and opening gates to get a better look at these strange people riding by.  It's so amusing watching the kids here react to my English: it's almost like they're watching a magic trick but aren't quite sure how they feel about it.  We picked up some tasty donut-shaped crackers and 2 of my favorite things from Ukraine: Kbac (pronounced: kvass) which is a slightly fermented drink made from old bread - it sounds questionable, but it's delicious. And pear-flavored soda.

There are so many wonderful people here who will stop at nothing to make sure you are well-fed and well-cared for.  We leave in a few days and it will be very hard to say good bye.  Hopefully I will get an invitation to come back some day...